Woodlice & silverfish

The lumbering armadillo-like woodlouse and the fleet-footed silverfish are surprisingly common, though often overlooked, visitors in our homes. Though both share a liking for cool, dark, damp hiding places beneath sinks or at the back of cupboards and despite a superficially similar appearance, in many ways they could not be more different. Fittingly, both the level of nuisance they pose and the best methods to deal with them reflect this.

Woodlice
Woodlice are not insects, but a kind of crustacean – related to crabs, lobsters and prawns – and need moist conditions to survive. Despite their name, they do not damage wood; though in nature they may often be found in and under rotting logs and principally live on decaying vegetable matter and fungi, although they may occasionally attack the shoots and roots of seedling plants.

Normally to be encountered outside, hiding during the day in cool, dark and damp nooks and crannies under stones or beneath old wood, woodlice sometimes enter homes, particularly with the onset of cold weather in the winter.

If drought or heavy rainfall affects their normal hiding places this may also trigger an invasion. Contrary to a common belief, they do not come inside to breed, but simply in search of shelter – though in modern, centrally heated houses this is often their undoing, as the warm, dry conditions usually kill them off within a few days.

If they find their way into relatively damper and more favourable surroundings, such as the bathroom or beneath the kitchen sink woodlice may do better, particularly if they also find a source of food.

Although they are entirely harmless, apart from the small amount of damage they cause to young foliage from time to time, many people simply do not like them – especially if they arrive in large numbers.

If they are viewed as a problem, there are a few measures which can help. The swiftest and perhaps kindest solution is simply to sweep or vacuum them up and return them outside where they belong.

Since invading woodlice often originate from hiding places close by the house itself, removing likely sheltering spots and sealing any points of entry such as cracks or holes in the masonry, or gaps around doors or windows may help prevent them returning in the future.

Drying out or turning up the heating in any areas of the house where they have been seen will either drive them away, or hasten their demise. Specialist products can be used as a last resort against woodlice, or alternatively, although they are not insects, commonly available insecticide sprays or dusts are also effective, especially if applied to likely hiding places.

Silverfish
Silverfish are swift-running, torpedo-shaped, wingless insects around 1cm long in metallic silver with three long, thin bristles at their tail-end. They shun the light, hiding in damp, cool places in kitchen cupboards, bathrooms and underneath floors and are often only seen if surprised by a light late at night, when they have emerged to feed.

They may also sometimes be found trapped in baths or basins, since they cannot climb smooth surfaces.

Unlike woodlice, silverfish can cause damage around the house, since these scavengers feed on a variety of materials, with wallpaper and old books featuring as favourites on their menu.

Yellowish stains, irregular patches or notches on paper are common tell-tale signs of silverfish activity, although they also commonly eat glues, tile grouting, paste and cereal crumbs.

Silverfish and their eggs can often be brought into the home in cardboard boxes, old books or papers. The newly hatched young look like miniature adults.

Denying them food by tidying up areas where cardboard, books or old paper are stored can be useful in controlling silverfish, but it is unlikely to be enough on its own as they can survive for a year or more without feeding.

Residual insecticides are the most effective means of controlling silverfish and should be applied to all likely looking nooks and crannies under sinks, behind skirting boards, around pipes and anywhere else which might harbour them.

Although the control measures outlined should prove effective, both woodlice and silverfish favour moist conditions, which may mean that their presence could also be a sign of condensation or some other form of damp. This is not entirely bad news however, since if it is the case, identifying and resolving the underlying cause – which can often mean simply improving ventilation or fixing a plumbing leak – frequently removes the pest problem too.

The trouble with cluster flies

Cluster flies are found throughout the UK and their common name refers to their habit of forming clusters when “hibernating” - in often large numbers - in buildings.

Whilst there is a specific species of common cluster fly (Pollenia rudis), there are other species of cluster fly and swarming flies which have a similar hibernating nature and these may also be involved in forming mixed populations of flies inside suitable buildings.

The life cycle of the Cluster Fly is very much dependent on the prevailing weather conditions, and in this country, two generations a year are usual but in hot summers, up to four generations per year are possible.

Cluster flies are “field” flies and in summer and early autumn they are of no consequence. However, as the weather becomes cooler, they seek out shelter in nooks and crannies in houses and other buildings.

As the weather becomes colder, they search for more protection from the elements and may be seen in large numbers, particularly in roof spaces, lofts, etc, sometimes with several thousand flies clustered together.

Curiously, it has often been seen that a single house or one building in a row of similar buildings will be chosen year after year for this clustering phenomenon.

Large numbers of cluster flies hibernating together are capable of producing a sickly smell and, if their local environment becomes warmer for any reason, they can emerge to fly around, albeit rather lazily.

They are attracted to light, and some will find their way into living areas. The presence of large flies in winter, usually around windows, can cause concern to the building’s occupants.

However, whilst cluster flies can be a source of nuisance on occasion, it is not considered that they pose any risk to human health and their presence should not be taken as evidence of poor hygiene.

Prevention and Control

Control methods for cluster and swarming flies are often ineffective or incomplete. It is often impossible to keep flies from entering premises.

Indeed, it is likely that in many premises used by cluster flies the areas or voids used are difficult, if not impossible, to locate.

Prevent them entering the building in the first place, especially by blocking any access into cavity walls, e.g. replacing missing bricks, filling in other holes, etc.

Although proofing is seldom 100% successful, sealing around window and door frames and other obvious entry points can also assist in controlling their presence.

Cluster flies do not breed indoors and once they are inside a property, control can be relatively easily achieved by a professional pest controller.

Use of EFKs

We have found that using a ultra violet electronic fly killer that has been specifically adapted for cluster fly control to be a very effective method of controlling these flies.

Use of insecticides and pesticides

Insecticides can be purchased from garden centres/shops, hardware/ironmongers shops, DIY stores, etc.

Insecticides and pesticides are potentially dangerous. Store them away from children and pets. Always read the label and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

If you need more information or advice, please contact Castle Pest Control Services on 01760 7755574.

IMPORTANT NOTE: There is a possibility of bats living in the same areas in buildings used by cluster flies, and great care must be taken to survey the area for signs of bat presence. Please note that it is an offence even to disturb bats. In case of doubt, Natural England must be notified before any insecticidal or other treatments are applied.

When it all goes wrong

As a local pest control company in Norfolk you might be surprised to learn that the vast bulk of our enquires and business comes from the internet.

So you can imagine our horror this week when we learned that our website had developed some technical problems, without the website and the important information it contains Castle Pest Control Services internet presence was compromised.

A call to Sean at One 10 Media in North Norfolk and he worked his technical magic and rid the website of any rats, mice or gremlins that were messing with the meta tags and html, the site is still a little unwell but at least its operational again and a full service will be resumed shortly.

So its a big thank you to local Norfolk company One 10 Media which proves local is always best.

Keeping Pests Out

There are some things you can do to keep pests out, such as reinforcing vents. Squirrels and even rats climb from tree branches onto the roof and easily get into your home through vents.

Also reinforce the holes made by construction, such as installation of outdoor lighting and air conditioners. The A/C will always run into the home and leave a gap, the animals can basically just run straight down the A/C lines right into the house.

Check to make sure your chimney is secured if you’re not using it, and do not leave garage doors open for long periods of time.

Once they make it inside your garage, you know, there’s several openings left over in your normal construction where they can actually make it up inside your attic.

If you have that doggy door that everybody leaves unlocked, go ahead and lock those up right now because squirrels will just – you’ll find one in your kitchen one day.

If you think you have a problem with pests getting into your home, your first inclination, like most people, would be to go around your house and start covering up your holes. However, experts said that’s the last thing you want to do.

If you just close up a hole thinking that you’re solving a problem, you might just be creating a worse problem by locking a pest inside the house, which could definitely come into the living space if that happens.

Once an animal gets into your insulation, it can easily get into the house through openings in walls near stoves and dishwashers.

Rodent checklist

• When feeding birds, do not spread food directly onto the ground. Where possible use a hanging type feeder.
• Check around the outside of your property to make sure there are no holes or gaps in the walls where rats and mice can gain entry. If you can fit a pen or pencil in the hole, a mouse will be able to fit too.
• Make sure garage doors are sealed as tightly as possible.
• Whenever possible, keep all external doors closed.
• Avoid leaving any rubbish or household waste in the yard or garden.
• Do not store food such as chocolate or biscuits in your loft.

Carpet Beetles

A carpet beetle infestation can cause a great deal of damage to organic artifacts like leather, wool, cotton, fur and preserved animal specimens. They spread quickly and are difficult to get rid of.

The best course of action is, of course, prevention. But how do you know you have carpet beetles? And what should you do if you find them? Read on to learn more.

Carpet Beetle Lifecycle

It is the carpet beetle larvae that cause all the damage. Carpet beetles seek out dark, undisturbed places to lay their eggs. A remote corner of your collection storage area would be a perfect place to raise their young.

The carpet beetle lays her eggs in wool, leather, fur, etc. so when they hatch they have an abundant food source. The larvae will feast on the material around them, eating through your precious artifacts.

Adult carpet beetles prefer sunlight and do not feed on fabrics. Instead, they are attracted to pollen and nectar. They usually enter a building on fresh cut flowers or hitch a ride on furniture or other artifacts.

Evidence

It can be difficult to determine whether the damage has been caused by clothes moths or carpet beetles. Generally speaking, carpet beetles cause large areas of damage, while clothes moths chew smaller holes scattered all over a garment.

The best evidence is what gets left behind. Carpet beetle larvae leave skin casings and white fecal pellets that resemble grains of salt.

Getting Rid of Carpet Beetles

An Integrated Pest Management system includes regular observation of collections storage areas. Monitor sticky traps at scheduled intervals. Any evidence of carpet beetles should be immediately reported to us.

An artifact with a serious infestation will likely need to be removed from the collection. The damage caused by the carpet beetles will probably make it unsuitable for exhibition and beyond any conservation work. Minor damage can sometimes be repaired, but it is important to eradicate any residual eggs and/or larvae before reintroducing the artifact into the collection.

Cleaning the area of the infestation thoroughly may be enough to contain it. But particularly severe infestations must be treated with insecticide. Consult Castle Pest Control Services before treating any artifact.

Prevention

Prevention is the best medicine when dealing with carpet beetles. Regularly inspect collection storage areas and thoroughly examine any new acquisitions for problems. Clean storage areas often and do not permit anyone to eat or drink in designated collections areas, including offices and workspaces.

For carpet beetles, finding a collection of animal specimens is like hitting the jackpot. These artifacts should be periodically put in a freezer for 10-14 days to kill carpet beetles in all life stages.

Deterring unwelcome visitors from your bird feeders

If you enjoy feeding the wild birds then you may or may not be aware of the other visitors you are inviting into your garden.

Deterring unwelcome visitors

There are several visitors which are often unwelcome at feeders. All come because there is food on offer – some to eat the food you put out, some to try to catch the birds you want to attract.

• Rats – most problems occur either with spilt seed that isn’t cleared up regularly, or ground feeders left out overnight. Solutions include attaching seed trays to the base of hanging feeders to catch much of that which is dropped, and bringing ground feeders in overnight.

• Squirrels – grey squirrels are highly adaptable, and finding a solution that they cannot crack can be hard. Good products are now available – either Perspex domes that fit over or under a feeder, or metal cages that fit around the feeder and let small birds in but keep squirrels out, and also larger birds such as feral pigeons, crows, magpies, wood pigeons.

If you require any further advice please contact us

Rouge traders

Sadly its a fact of most industries there will be rouge traders tarnishing the reputation of honest trustworthy professionals and for want of a better word "ripping off customers", thankfully they are in the minority.

After watching BBC1s Rouge trader programme on the 10th February 2010 we felt it would be helpful offering pointers on how to avoid becoming the victim of a rouge trader. Thease tips are primarily aimed at pest control but would be good practise for all professions.

1 Ask to see insurance certificate, membership certificates and competence certificates, don't be embarrassed to ask, reputable pest controllers will happily show you there documents, they are proud of them and continue learning and developing there knowledge.

2 A thorough inspection of your premisses is of utmost importance to establish the pest problem, at the beginning of a survey we often jokingly apologies to customers on how invasive our job can be and if they have anything laying around they would rather us not see then now is the time to remove the items.

3 The pest controller should explain his or her findings, what they will do, how they will do it and what they are using. all of this information will also be detailed in a report left for you, if they don't have any knowledge about the type, effects and consequence of the baits they are using then the ask them to leave.

4 If they attempt to leave open baits around your home available to pets and children then ask them to take everything away and leave, responsible pest controllers will not do this, they are thinking about your pets your children and you touching or eating the bait you and your families safety is first in there mind.

Please bear in mind the above points and always ask, if you get the feeling that they don't know what they are doing you can call us for completely free advise.

Pest Control in Food Businesses

Pest infestations cost businesses money. Pests damage and contaminate food, gnaw through electrical cables and cause disease. As a food business proprietor it is YOUR responsibility to deal with pests effectively.

The three main groups of pests that are encountered in food businesses are:

 Rodents - Mice and Rats
 Insects - Cockroaches, Beetles, Ants and Flies
 Birds - Pigeons, Seagulls etc

Regulation (EC) 852/2004 on the hygiene of foodstuffs states that businesses must ensure that the layout, design, construction and size of food premises shall permit good food hygiene practices, including protection against cross contamination between and during operations by external sources of contamination such as pests.

The Regulations also require that adequate procedures be in place to ensure pests are controlled. Setting up a pest control contract is good practice, but remember that the ultimate responsibility for any pest problem lies with the proprietor of the food business. The premises must be periodically visually checked for signs of pest presence.

Laying of baits and poisons should be left to the professionals. Commercially available baits are not adequate for use in food businesses and can be a source of food contamination.

Remember that domestic animals are classed as pests in food businesses and should be kept out of food areas.

Rodent Control
The most common pests found in food premises are rats and mice. Follow the advice below and you should never have a problem with these rodents.

Exclusion
The best way to deal with pests is to exclude them from your premises completely, which is possible in almost all cases. Even if you do not have a current pest problem, measures must be taken to ensure that pests cannot enter the premises.

All gaps should be sealed using a hard, gnaw resistant material. Cement, mortar, hard filler, brush strips and fine gauge wire mesh are the best examples of materials that should be used to seal gaps. Spray foam is often used to fill gaps because it is quick and easy to apply in an emergency. Foam should not be used as a long term solution as mice and rats can easily gnaw through it.

There are several common ways that rodents can enter a food business:

 Gaps under external doors - the most common way that mice and rats enter premises is to squeeze under gaps under doors. Fitting a brush strip on the bottom of the door will seal the gap effectively.

 Gaps around pipes and cables - make sure there are no gaps around pipes or cables when they pass through external walls. Make sure work is checked after contractors finish any job involving pipes or wires going through external walls.

 Gaps hidden by suspended ceilings - always check any suspended ceilings as there are usually cables and pipes running through walls that cannot be seen.

 Doors and windows left open - not usually a problem during the day, as activity will scare the mice and rats away. All doors and windows should be closed at night or during any quiet period. Pest screens can be fitted to doors and windows that are left open regularly.

 Uncovered drains and dry toilets - rats use the sewers like a motorway. They can gain access to property wherever they have any opportunity. Keep all drains covered and keep a water seal on toilets. If a toilet is not used, consider having it removed and seal the pipe.

 Broken drains - the most common way that rats escape the sewer is through broken drains. If you are experiencing a rat problem then a broken drain is the most likely source of the rats. Have drains surveyed and repaired when necessary.

Remember that rats and mice are good at climbing and can access buildings at any level.

Good Housekeeping
Mice and rats will eat food debris from the floor and refuse that is not placed into sealed bins. Even when precautionary baits have been placed, if food debris is available to the rodents they will eat the debris and leave the bait in most cases.
Remember that one mouse only has to eat the equivalent of one pea per day to survive.

It is particularly important to ensure that food debris does not build up under and behind equipment. It is these dark, hard to see places that rats and mice prefer, so keep them debris free. This can be achieved by employing a 'clean as you go' policy so that if a spillage occurs, it is cleaned up immediately.

Ensure that all foods are covered when not in use and kept off the floor to discourage rodents from eating them. It is also a good idea to stack food a few inches away from walls so that the gap may be inspected for signs of rodents and to discourage the shy pests from hiding behind the food.

Signs of Infestation
You should regularly check for signs of infestation, even if you employ a pest controller. It only takes a matter of days for an infestation to get out of hand, which can occur between your scheduled pest visits.

Signs to look out for include:
 Rodent droppings on the floor, shelves and other surfaces.
 Gnawed food packaging and structure.
 Greasy smear marks along the bottom of walls.
 Rodents themselves either dead or alive!

Cockroach Control
Good hygiene practice is essential in the control of cockroaches, as is the reduction of access to food and water. Food should be kept in airtight storage jars and any food debris or waste should be cleared up straight away.

Cockroaches can survive longer on just water as opposed to just food so reducing supplies to water is essential in controlling cockroach populations. Fix any leaks and sweating pipes, provide ventilation to moist areas, mop up any spillages, do not leave washing up soaking overnight and empty refrigerator overflow containers.

The next step is to start to reduce potential harbourage in the areas suggested by the traps as being the most infested. Removing any clutter where cockroaches might live i.e. loose wallpaper, and broken tiles, cookery books and loose papers are a also a perfect haven.

Any holes, cracks or crevices must be blocked, painted or sealed shut bearing in mind that the young of the German cockroach can fit in a gap of less than 1mm. Before starting, these areas should be washed to eliminate any eggs, food material or waste that has accumulated. Any furniture suspected of harbouring cockroaches can be steam cleaned if appropriate.

Vacuuming regularly, especially in out of the way areas can suck up cockroaches, their eggs and the material they feed on. The dust in the bag should clog up the breathing apparatus of any cockroaches but to make sure, seal the dust bag in a sealed plastic bag.

What to do if you have an infestation
The key to dealing effectively with pest infestations is to identify them in the early stages. This involves regular monitoring of your premises for the signs of pests described above.

When signs of pests are detected, we recommend that you take the following steps to ensure that the health of your customers is not harmed and to remove the infestation:

1. Close the business until the mice, rats or cockroaches have been effectively cleared from food storage, preparation and service areas.

2. Engage a qualified, competent person to survey the premises and carry out such treatment as is necessary to remove the infestation. This means that you should call your pest control contractor or set up a pest control contract if you do not already have one.
3. Contact us to gain further advice.

4. Thoroughly clean and disinfect all equipment and surfaces that may have been contaminated by pests, including the floor, removing and disposing of any stock that may have been contaminated by pests. Care should be taken when cleaning as pest contamination can cause disease. Gloves should be worn.

5. Clean away all rodent droppings, dead cockroaches and cockroach egg cases from the premises.

6. Keep all food off the floor in sealed containers that are not accessible by pests.

7. Block off all holes in the premises which may afford access to rodents with a hard, gnaw resistant material.

8. Block all gaps under doors and fit pest screens to doors and windows that may be left open.

9. Fill all small crevices that may harbour cockroaches.

10. Fix leaky taps, cover toilet and deny all access to water to pests.

11. Dispose of any food that may have been contaminated by the mice, rats or cockroaches.

If pest activity is detected by an Environmental Health Officer at your premises you risk the business being closed by Emergency Prohibition Action. If this occurs you will lose trade, gain bad publicity and may have to pay in excess

Anti mouse cover

Mousemesh vent covers, prevents mice from entering a property via exsisting in-built air brick vents. This unique pest control innovation is one of the few truly preventative measures currently available. It is easy to fit, and the ABS frame and stainless steel insert ensure it?s durability in all weathers. Available in two sizes 9" (229mm) x 4" (102mm)or 9" (229mm) x 9" (229mm) We can supply and fit or supply only, please call to discuss your requirements.

Stockists of Protectabed mattress encasement systems

Mattress Encasements

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Anti-Allergy Bedding

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Mattress Encasement – Bed Bug Protection
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Mattress Encasements for Rejuvenating Rest
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Castle Pest Control Services can supply any quantity, there is substantial savings for multi buy. Please contact us for pricing and further information.

The trouble with rabbits

The wild rabbit is the major economic wildlife pest species in the UK.

Rabbit damage is a major economic problem for British agriculture, costing the industry an estimated £100 million annually by destroying crops and grazing

How much of that £100.000.000 was yours?

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New shoots on herbaceous plants can be grazed down to ground level. Foliage and soft shoots of woody plants can be grazed up to a height of 50cm (20in) by rabbits standing up on their hind legs.

Bark may be gnawed away from the base of trunks, especially in winter when snow or frost makes other vegetation unavailable. This can kill the tree if bark is removed all the way around the trunk. Partly gnawed trunks should be wrapped in black polythene to encourage the damaged area to callus over. Bridge grafting can sometimes save badly damaged trees, for example on apples. Rabbits also dig holes and scrapes in lawns and flower beds.

Other businesses suffer also such as golf courses and country house gardens with the rabbits digging holes in greens and killing grass with their droppings ,eating flowers and bulbs and destroying young trees by stripping bark

Railways
The railway network suffers a lot of damage from rabbits, as they tend to burrow into railway embankments weakening them. They also access adjoining land and damage the crop, vegetation lawned areas etc. It is the landowner’s obligation to deal with this problem.

History The domestic rabbit is a descendant of the wild European rabbit. Rabbits were introduced to Britain by the Romans they kept them in fenced off warrens and used them for meat and fur. The earliest known records of rabbits in Britain are from the 12th Century. They were t described as conies, after the last part of their scientific name (Oryctolagus cuniculus). Rabbits are very adaptable and have become so successful in some areas of this country that they are considered to be a pest. Life span rabbits can live for an average of 5-10 years. Distribution and Habitat in the wild The European rabbit naturally is found all over Europe, except for the far north and east, and also inhabits North West Africa. The rabbit has been introduced to many other countries, including New Zealand, Australia and Chile. It lives in grassland, cultivated land, grassy coastal cliffs woodland and farm land ,anywhere it can populate and has food. Behaviour in the wild Wild rabbits are gregarious and a couple of hundred individuals may be found in one warren which is a network of underground burrows. They are most active during dusk and dawn,and will also come out during the day if undisturbed. Rabbits primarily feed on grass and leafy plants such as farm crops, but they will feed on bulbs in gardens and woodland, bark and twigs when food is scarce. They can also be damaging to young trees . Females can and often do produce several litters a year, usually in the spring and summer. There are between 3 and 9 young in a litter which are born blind and helpless. They emerge from the burrow after 3 weeks .

Facts

Diet
Rabbits eat the leaves of a wide range of vegetation including agricultural crops, cereals, young trees and cabbages. In winter, they eat grasses, bulbs and bark. They re-ingest their faeces for nutritional benefit.

Behaviour apart from crop munching
Rabbits have a burrow system known as a warren, and tunnels can be 1-2m long. The nest at the end of the tunnel is lined with grass, moss and belly fur. They use regular trails, which they scent mark with faecal pellets.

Reproduction

Mating occurs throughout the year, producing several litters of between 3 and 12 kittens each time, every 6 weeks or so. The kittens are weaned after 28 days and become sexually mature after just 4 months.

This means that the original male & female become parents, grand-parents & great grand-parents, all within the space of one year. The phrase ‘breeding like rabbits’ really does mean what it says!

The experts tend to agree that one pair of rabbits can be responsible for up to 1000 new rabbits within a 12 month period.

population

Rabbit populations are increasing (not surprising given the statistics above) and they are becoming immune to the miximatosis virus. This is becoming a costly problem for many farmers, landowners, stately homes and golf courses, where plants are destroyed, holes are dug and the acidic droppings kill off grass.

Life span
Up to 9 years. one rabbit could make another 324 rabbits which can also make another 324 rabbits which could make 104976 more rabbits add all this up over a period of time and imagine how much they can eat,

if you have rabbits on your land eating your crops or landscaped gardens this could be quite costly without you even realizing how bad it actually is

Code of Practice covering humane use of glue boards drafted

In a move to ensure the continued availability of glue boards for the control of rodents within the professional pest control market, a new industry-wide Code of Practice covering their use has been drafted.

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This Code, produced by the relatively recently created Pest Management Industry Alliance (consisting of the British Pest Control Association, the National Pest Technicians Association, the National Pest Advisory Panel and the UK Pest Controllers Organisation) aims to illustrate the professional approach taken by the industry regarding the humane use of these items.

To read, or download, this new Code of Practice click here.

Welcoming this Code, NPTA Chairman, Peter Crowden said: “This is an excellent example of how all sections of the industry can work together for their mutual benefit, hopefully, the first of many such initiatives. Once this Code is fully in-place, it will receive the support of the various government agencies – Natural England and Defra for example. Personally, I would like to see these products available only for professional use – ideally only those operators working within the BASIS PROMPT Scheme.” On a practical level, BPCA CEO, Oliver Madge said: “The continued use of this (last resort) control method is a very important part of our armoury and one that we need to be able to defend. It is also a first step towards promoting a professional use only product. If restrictions are put in place it must be against amateur user, to assist preventing inhumane practices and allow pest controllers to deliver and be paid for professional services.” Background to the situation Glue boards used for the capture of rodents have been in use for some years. Various voluntary Codes of Practice have been in operation for professional users, yet their introduction into the DIY market has raised concerns regarding their use. On the 8 July 2009, three MPs, Alan Meale (Mansfield), Bill Etherington (Sunderland North) and Peter Bottomley (Worthing West) signed a motion in Parliament as follows: Use of glue traps in the UK That this House is aware that pest controllers who are members of the British Pest Control Association are currently subject to a voluntary code on the use of rodent traps, which includes the direction that distributors should not supply glue boards to persons who are not trained or competent in pest control practices; notes that a wild mammal is protected by the provisions of the Wild Mammals (Protection) Act 1996 but also that this law does not cover animals caught in inhumane glue traps which cause them much unnecessary suffering; and believes that the Government should follow the lead of many other parliaments worldwide and recognise the cruelty of such practices by introducing legislation to ban their use in the UK. It was felt that this motion would generate further discussion with its supporters who would seek to have the sale and use of glue boards banned in the UK. The Pest Management Industry Alliance recognises that in the hands of an-untrained person glue boards can be used inappropriately and in a manner that can become inhumane. It therefore shares the concern of Members of Parliament and animal welfare groups that glue boards are readily available for members of the public to buy either in retail premises or on the internet. The Alliance believes that the sale and use of glue boards must always be permitted as a matter of last resort by properly trained professionals working in accordance with an industry standard code of practice and never by members of the general public

Fine imposed for illegal storage of Cymag

On 11 January 2010 at Norwich Magistrates Court, George Farrow was convicted of an offence relating to the storage of an unapproved pesticide product – Cymag (sodium cyanide).

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This conviction follows proceedings taken by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE). Mr Farrow pleaded guilty to the charge and was fined £600.

Mr Farrow’s premises were visited as part of a Wildlife Incident Investigation Scheme (WIIS) enquiry into the death of a barn owl. During the visit a number of unapproved pesticide products were identified.

An Enforcement Notice was issued against Mr Farrow directing him to safely dispose of these unapproved products via a licensed waste disposal company. However, Mr Farrow did not comply with the Notice and this lead to the decision to prosecute for the illegal storage of Cymag. The decision to prosecute was deemed appropriate because of the significant safety issues relating to the unapproved product and also to its storage at an unsecure premises – in a caravan on his holding. Products containing sodium cyanide were approved in the UK for rabbit and rat control by trained users. Approval for sale, use and storage of these products was revoked in December 2004. Natural England on behalf of the HSE, wish to emphasise the dangers to humans posed by the continuing storage of this banned fumigant.

As the can deteriorates, so the risks increase

Paul Butt, senior specialist with the Wildlife Management & Licensing Team said: “Despite having lost all approvals for storage and use in December 2004, old stocks of Cymag are still being discovered. These have been found in a number of unsuitable and poor storage situations and as the packaging deteriorates, there is an increasing possibility of gas being released, so creating a poisoning risk to anyone coming into contact. The only legal and safe way of disposing of this material is to obtain the services of a licensed pesticide waste contractor.” A number of unapproved products were found in this highly inappropriate 'store'

Preventive Maintenance Program Pest Control

To control pests, like everything else, the best form of control is prevention. Preventive pest control provides a solid base for your entire pest control system, and, if carried out properly, will provide almost all the pest control you will need.

What to check 0utside your home

Frequency: Monthly

1. Check the outside areas of your property for weeds and overgrown bushes.

2. Check for rubbish, rubble, and debris. These provide cover and food for insects and rodents. Remove anything found.

3. Check all containers like bird baths, pet food or pet watering bowls for stagnant water, and left over food. If you are feeding more than your pet needs, you are inviting predators to dine on your lawn. If you leave standing water, you are inviting mosquitoes to breed.

4. Check for puddles, and standing water. If you find any, be certain to make and execute plans to provide permanent drainage.

5. Check the effectiveness of your mowing program. Look for the presence of thatch. If the grass is getting a little too high between mowings, you may need to add an extra mowing day. High grass and thatch allow insects and rodents to move undetected in your lawn, and allows weeds time to mature and replant themselves.

6. Check for tree limbs, shrubs, vines, and landscape plants touching your home. Trim them back if they are. They provide a roadway for insects and rodents to get onto, and into your house.

7. Check for holes, cracks, and poorly sealed plumbing, electrical, and communication line openings, and seal any you find.

8. Check doors and windows to be sure that screens fit tightly, that the caulking joints are in good order, and that weatherstripping and sweeps are are not letting light, and pests through.

9. After these steps have been taken, any outdoor pests remaining can be treated with the appropriate insecticides and herbicides. There should be few if any, if the above steps were taken correctly.

What to check inside your home

1. Check all entries corresponding to those outside, such as cable, plumbing, and electrical entry, and door and window frames. Make any repairs needed.

2. Make sure that the inside of your home is clean, free of clutter, and free of food crumbs.

3. Look for signs of insects and rodent entry and activity such as feces, and gnawing marks. Use traps for rodents before using rodenticides if at all possible. Use insecticides sparingly if needed, and then only according to label directions.

We offer free advice and site surveys if you are concerned with any of the above.

Why Hire A Pest Control Company Instead Of Accomplishing It Yourself

One very frustrating aspect of owning your own home is in dealing with the pests. Pests such as ants or rodents are nuisance which all of us wish could live without. When these pests actually come into your home, you always have a choice. That choice is whether to try to do it yourself for pest control, or to hire a pest control company. In this article we are going to learn the reasons why you should hire professionals.

To start with, a pest control company is backed by years of knowledge and experience. A lot of times when trying to get rid of pests it is more about knowledge then just poisons. The experience will assist you in staving off frustration when attempts fail. Their knowledge will provide them the ability to finish the job the first time around.

Another advantage of pest control companies is the pesticides they use will last for 60 days or more. Compare this to a lot of store bought solutions that last less then 30 days. Definitely, if you want to eliminate pests, you would want them to be gone for good.

Another great reason in hiring a pest control company is that they usually come with a guarantee. They are usually confident in their solution that if the pests are not eliminated, they will return. When you buy some solution from a store, if it doesn’t work, you will only have wasted time and money.

Finally hiring a pest control company instead of doing it yourself is they know the safest ways. At times when dealing with pests, the chemicals you utilize could be dangerous. Or at other times, the pest you are trying to get rid of could be harmful. A pest control company always know the safest ways.

So those are the major advantages when employing a pest control company. They are the professionals so use it to your advancement.